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235
The Private Papers of Henry Ryecroft
·
George Gissing
131
A
happy
chance
that
I
ever
saw
Avlona.
I
was
on
my
way
from
Corfu
to
Brindisi.
The
steamer
sailed
late
in
the
afternoon;
there
was
a
little
wind,
and
as
the
December
night
became
chilly,
I
soon
turned
in.
With
the
first
daylight
I
was
on
deck,
expecting
to
find
that
we
were
near
the
Italian
port;
to
my
surprise,
I
saw
a
mountainous
shore,
towards
which
the
ship
was
making
at
full
speed.
On
inquiry,
I
learnt
that
this
was
the
coast
of
Albania;
our
vessel
not
being
very
seaworthy,
and
the
wind
still
blowing
a
little
(though
not
enough
to
make
any
passenger
uncomfortable),
the
captain
had
turned
back
when
nearly
half
across
the
Adriatic,
and
was
seeking
a
haven
in
the
shelter
of
the
snow-topped
hills.
Presently
we
steamed
into
a
great
bay,
in
the
narrow
mouth
of
which
lay
an
island.
My
map
showed
me
where
we
were,
and
with
no
small
interest
I
discovered
that
the
long
line
of
heights
guarding
the
bay
on
its
southern
side
formed
the
Acroceraunian
Promontory.
A
little
town
visible
high
up
on
the
inner
shore
was
the
ancient
Aulon.
Here
we
anchored,
and
lay
all
day
long.
Provisions
running
short,
a
boat
had
to
be
sent
to
land,
and
the
sailors
purchased,
among
other
things,
some
peculiarly
detestable
bread--according
to
them,
cotto
al
sole.
There
was
not
a
cloud
in
the
sky;
till
evening,
the
wind
whistled
above
our
heads,
but
the
sea
about
us
was
blue
and
smooth.
I
sat
in
hot
sunshine,
feasting
my
eyes
on
the
beautiful
cliffs
and
valleys
of
the
thickly-wooded
shore.
Then
came
a
noble
sunset;
then
night
crept
gently
into
the
hollows
of
the
hills,
which
now
were
coloured
the
deepest,
richest
green.
A
little
lighthouse
began
to
shine.
In
the
perfect
calm
that
had
fallen,
I
heard
breakers
murmuring
softly
upon
the
beach.
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