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235
The Private Papers of Henry Ryecroft
·
George Gissing
195
To
be
sure,
this
culinary
principle
presupposes
food
of
the
finest
quality.
If
your
beef
and
your
mutton
have
flavours
scarcely
distinguishable,
whilst
both
this
and
that
might
conceivably
be
veal,
you
will
go
to
work
in
quite
a
different
way;
your
object
must
then
be
to
disguise,
to
counterfeit,
to
add
an
alien
relish--in
short,
to
do
anything
except
insist
upon
the
natural
quality
of
the
viand.
Happily,
the
English
have
never
been
driven
to
these
expedients.
Be
it
flesh,
fowl,
or
fish,
each
comes
to
table
so
distinctly
and
eminently
itself
that
by
no
possibility
could
it
be
confused
with
anything
else.
Give
your
average
cook
a
bit
of
cod,
and
tell
her
to
dress
it
in
her
own
way.
The
good
creature
will
carefully
boil
it,
and
there
an
end
of
the
matter;
and
by
no
exercise
of
art
could
she
have
so
treated
the
fish
as
to
make
more
manifest
and
enjoyable
that
special
savour
which
heaven
has
bestowed
upon
cod.
Think
of
our
array
of
joints;
how
royal
is
each
in
its
own
way,
and
how
utterly
unlike
any
of
the
others.
Picture
a
boiled
leg
of
mutton.
It
is
mutton,
yes,
and
mutton
of
the
best;
nature
has
bestowed
upon
man
no
sweeter
morsel;
but
the
same
joint
roasted
is
mutton
too,
and
how
divinely
different!
The
point
is
that
these
differences
are
natural;
that,
in
eliciting
them,
we
obey
the
eternal
law
of
things,
and
no
human
caprice.
Your
artificial
relish
is
here
not
only
needless,
but
offensive.
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