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309
The Ladies' Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness
·
Florence Hartley
28
For
deep
mourning,
the
dress
should
be
of
bombazine,
Parramatta
cloth,
delaine,
barege,
or
merino,
made
up
over
black
lining.
The
only
appropriate
trimming
is
a
deep
fold,
either
of
the
same
material
or
of
crape.
The
shawl
or
cloak
must
be
of
plain
black,
without
border
or
trimming,
unless
a
fold
of
crape
be
put
on
the
cloak;
the
bonnet
should
be
of
crape,
made
perfectly
plain,
with
crape
facings,
unless
the
widow's
cap
be
worn,
and
a
deep
crape
veil
should
be
thrown
over
both
face
and
bonnet.
Black
crape
collar
and
sleeves,
and
black
boots
and
gloves.
The
next
degree
is
to
wear
white
collar
and
sleeves,
a
bow
of
crape
upon
the
bonnet,
and
plain
white
lace
facings,
leaving
off
the
crape
veil,
and
substituting
one
of
plain
black
net.
A
little
later,
black
silk
without
any
gloss,
trimmed
with
crape,
may
be
worn,
and
delaine
or
bombazine,
with
a
trimming
of
broad,
plain
ribbon,
or
a
bias
fold
of
silk.
The
next
stage
admits
a
silk
bonnet
trimmed
with
crape,
and
lead
color,
dark
purple,
or
white
figures
on
the
dress.
From
this
the
mourning
passes
into
second
mourning.
Here
a
straw
bonnet,
trimmed
with
black
ribbon
or
crape
flowers,
or
a
silk
bonnet
with
black
flowers
on
the
outside,
and
white
ones
in
the
face,
a
black
silk
dress,
and
gray
shawl
or
cloak,
may
be
worn.
Lead
color,
purple,
lavender,
and
white,
are
all
admissible
in
second
mourning,
and
the
dress
may
be
lightened
gradually,
a
white
bonnet,
shawl,
and
light
purple
or
lavender
dress,
being
the
dress
usually
worn
last,
before
the
mourning
is
thrown
aside
entirely,
and
colors
resumed.
It
is
especially
to
be
recommended
to
buy
always
the
best
materials
when
making
up
mourning.
Crape
and
woolen
goods
of
the
finest
quality
are
very
expensive,
but
a
cheaper
article
will
wear
miserably;
there
is
no
greater
error
in
economy
than
purchasing
cheap
mourning,
for
no
goods
are
so
inferior,
or
wear
out
and
grow
rusty
so
soon.
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