The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants

FLEUR D'ITALIE; OR ITALIAN NOSEGAY. Esprit de rose, from pomade, 2 pints. " rose triple, 1 pint. " jasmine, } " violette, } from pomade, each, 1 " Extract of cassie, 1/2 " " musk, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (English formula.) Extract of orris root, 2 pints. Esprit de rose, triple, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " Extrait de cassie, } " tubereuse, } de pomade, of each 1/2 " " ambergris, } 1/2 " Otto of bergamot, 1/2 oz. JOCKEY CLUB BOUQUET. (French formula.) Esprit de rose, de pomade, 1 pint. " tubereuse, 1 " " cassie, 1/2 " " jasmine, 1/4 " Extract of civet, 3 oz. Independently of the materials employed being different to the original English recipe, it must be remembered that all the French perfumes are made of brandy, i.e. grape spirit; whereas the English perfumes are made with corn spirit, which alone modifies their odor. Though good for some mixtures, yet for others the grape spirit is very objectionable, on account of the predominance of its own aroma. We have spoken of the difference in the odor between the English and French spirit; the marked distinction of British and Parisian perfumes made according to the same recipes is entirely due to the different spirits employed. Owing to the strong "bouquet," as the French say, of their spirit in comparison with ours, the continental perfumers claim a superiority in the quality of their perfumes. Now, although we candidly admit that some odors are better when prepared with grape spirit than with that from corn spirit, yet there are others which are undoubtedly the best when prepared with spirit derived from the latter source. Musk, ambergris, civet, violet, tubereuse, and jasmine, if we require to retain their true aroma when in solution in alcohol, must be made with the British spirit.